I have been thinking about building a flat bed...trying to come up with the steel right now. A friend of mine built a couple by building the frame and welding the sheet to it. He said that the hardest part was keeping it from warping as he welded it. It still ended up with a good bit of warp in it. Any tips on keeping everything flat? Thanks.
What welding experience do you have? Any particular type welding you planned to use......tig, mig...arc? I have some recommendations for you as far as how to keep it from warping no matter what "science" you use, but I need to know a little more. And what gauge/thickness steel are you planning to use for sheeting and what are you using for framing material?
I have done some welding...(all arc welding)...mostly welding up cattle pens and tacking old trailers back together. But I am pretty much self-taught so I am no expert. Basically I am here for advise. What gauge do you recommend? Do you know what most flat beds use. I don''t want it to be weak either. Have not gotten exact measurements but I was thinking 3" rectangular tubing for the frame. For design something like the one in your sig....if it is not to challenging...if it is I''d be amazed at how much grip it really has. Mine is still a long way from finished.
I am trying to carve out some time to do this...probably a summer project. So if I make a 4 in tubing rectangle, how many cross pieces do I need for central support? Or maybe a better way to ask it is how often should I put a cross piece. Thanks a lot for the help! And any tips on keeping it flat would be great.
What will the length and width be? Is it going on a dually? Will you need heavy capacity on the rear bumper for towing? Will you have a 5''t understand this thinking..............''s not something I would leave up to someone who was not experienced. Most of the flatbeds I''t be up against the bed.
If you use something like 4" light c-channel with a 2" web for your main rails then 3" c with a 1-1/2" web for cross bracing that should put you high enough for your ball wo be sunk below deck height and give you plenty clearance so you won''ll weld your deck plate to the 3" in stich welds and use something like 3/4 x 3/4 or 1 x 1 angle between the crossmembers with the v turned to the deck between crossmembers to stiffen the decking and hold down on warp.
On another note.......... I was always taught and have always since, made the ball placement directly over the yoke of the rearend. All factory installed hitches I have seen matched this "theory" also.