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Woodworking Planshow to Woodworking Plans for

Introduction: Build an All Season Outdoor Cat Habitat

By DDMcFBy DDMcFFinal ImpressionsWoodworking Planshow to Woodworking Plans for
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About: After 12 years at Kodak and 30 years at Xerox as a senior software engineer, I retired May 2012. My passion is art, photography and engineering. More About DDMcF »

[Early November 2012 - Mr. Max peeks into the house from the habitat]

It was in the spring of 2007 when our beloved Mr. Spanky (A.K.A. Houdini) escaped once again; this time by jumping from an open upstairs window. Fortunately a week later a kind neighbor responded to our flyer and we were reunited. Because he is an indoor cat, we worried about his safety since we live in an area that has many predators and occasional traffic that keep the neighborhood pretty clear of stray cats. Knowing his love of the outdoors, the escape finally brought me to the conclusion that I needed to provide a safe outdoor habitat for him and our other Maine Coons.

I searched for various outdoor cages and habitat systems but I could find nothing suitable at a price I was willing to pay, so I decided this was a DIY project. Over these last 5 plus years it has been a huge success for both us and our feline friends.

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Step 1: Gathering Requirements

[Late May 2010 - Mr. Spanky sleeps outside on a high perch in the warmth of a spring day]

The outdoor habitat needs to be:

1. a four season structure.
2. off the ground to avoid fleas and the urge to use this space as a litter box.
3. predator (fox, coyote and large bird) proof.
4. free standing, not physically attached to the house.
5. 24-7 accessible via a current window (not a hole through the house).
6. a fun space.
7. cleanable.
8. big enough for 2 to 4 large cats at the same time.
9. accessible from the outside through a lockable door.
10. a safe haven should there be a house fire.
11. not exceed $500 (this project was just at $500 five years ago).
12. relatively maintenance free.
13. escape proof (even for a Houdini).

... and so this project describes an approximately 8''x4'' foot posts set into the ground about 16 inches deep. This is not deep enough for a permanent enclosed structure or people deck. If your catitat needs to support a heavier load then consider using a 12 foot post and sinking it 24 inches or more in or on a substantial concrete footer.

As of this writing, some 5 1/2 years after the initial construction, the habitat is still solid. Our frost line is about 30""step-toolbar""stepBody""step-tip""step-question""step-comment""svg-pdf step-download download-pdf login-required verification-required""course""step3""step""SIODIDLH8TTOF8U""step-title""mediaset""no-js-photoset""Materials Needed for the Base Structure.""https://cdn.instructables.com/F32/AOPC/H8RVC1YU/F32AOPCH8RVC1YU.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""step-body""x4""x4""x4""x4"" deck screws (enough for the entire project) - note that the recommended minimum sink depth is 1 inch, so a 2x4, which is 1 1/2 inches by 3 1/2 inches would require a 2 1/2 inch screw or longer. A 2"" beam is 1 1/4 inch thick so these are appropriate for this lumber as well.

1 box of 3"" deck screws for the decking boards that are about 1 inch thick.

50'') and 2 front sections at 8 feet each. The total is about 42''s) and a level to position the post. While supported, I mixed and poured the concrete mix around the post and let it set for a few hours while I measured and dug the remaining 3 holes.

I used a mark on the first post as a guide to get the remaining three posts to a level depth, and used temporary 2x2''s to align them. As you can see in my photograph, I also used temporary diagonal supports at the top. The critical measurement is from corner to corner on the diagonal at both the top and bottom of the structure. It''t be fully rigid until the chicken wire is attached, so be careful.

Step 5: Finish the Lower and Upper Supports.

Next I finished the upper and lower supports. On the lower deck support I added a center 2x4 for additional load support. Then added a top forward facing 2x4 for added strength and to be able to easily attach the rear center upright 2x4 beam.

When the top and bottom supports were complete, I added the two center upright 2x4'' decking


Door:
28'') 2"" pressure treated lumber (4 each 8'' (3 each of 4'' pressure treated lumber

Step 7: Assemble Deck and Face Plates

Woodworking Planshow to Woodworking Plans for Each of the nine 8 foot deck boards were cut in half. Starting in the middle, I notched the two center boards (not exactly as the illustration indicates, see the photograph for better alignment).

Make sure to space your deck boards about 1/4 inch apart (official recommendation is 1/8 inch) to facilitate drainage and cleaning. Also note that if you purchase boards that are wet or very damp, they will be swollen and will shrink down when dry. As you can see in this photograph, the boards are almost butt up against each other, but they were extremely wet and are now about 1/4 inch apart.

Next attach the face plate to the two front support posts. This makes the entire front of the habitat flush and provides an anchor for the door hinges.

Step 8: Assemble the Door

I built a 3 sided (top, right and bottom) frame for the door from 2x2''t worry too much if it''t want to tempt a neighborhood kid to experiment. I also added a door back stop to keep it from being pushed in by any potential aggressive predators.

Step 9: Assemble Cleanout Runs

My initial design did not have a convenient way to clean out the habitat. This became especially problematic in the fall when leaves would get inside, or the occasional hairball. This summer I modified the design to include a 2x2 runner that is about 2 inches above the deck. The chicken wire attaches to this runner, not the bottom of the deck (as shown in older habitat photographs).

You will need 12 feet of 2x2'' deck boards. The number of skirts you will need may depend on the distance between the house and the habitat  The illustration shows 4 skirts, but I added an additional skirt board along the deck. See the photograph for details on the double skirt stack.

Step 11: Assemble Jumps and Runs.


At this point you are mostly on your own as to what you might provide for the cats to use for jumps and runs, but this is probably the most fun to design based on your cat''s. Because a 2x4 is almost (1/4 inch difference) the same height as a 2x2, they can be sandwiched between two 2x2's to make a small ledge or cat walk (although most cats should be able to walk a 2x2).

I provided a walk out pad and several runs and jumps in my original design, then over the years I added a handicap accessible lower jump pad for a wounded kitty and a second perch for when we had visiting cats.

I would recommend that you complete as much inside work as possible before attaching the chicken wire because it gets a bit cramped when the enclosure is complete. Also keep in mind that you will have to navigate inside the structure for maintenance and cleaning.

See photograph of how ours is currently set up.

Note that one side is open enough that I can get in and out, and that is where we put a pvc and polyester cat jungle gym (discussed later).

Step 12: Cover With Chicken Wire

Except for the top of the habitat, one person can do the chicken wire work, however it went faster and easier when my wife was helping me. 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