Woodworking Plans

🔥+ Woodworking Plans 04 Jun 2020 Jul 9, 2014 - free plans woodworking resource from WBGU PBS - American ... for spreading the ideas and aesthetics espoused by British design reformers and ...Jul 9, 2014 - free plans woodworking resource from WBGU PBS - American Woodshop,Scott Philips,WBGU-PBS,clocks,small,bracket clocks,free woodworking ...

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I''t fit in a standard-sized couch) and I wanted to add a little of my own style - so I used their plans as a basic starting point and went from there.  I ended up making the couch 1-1/2"" longer (notice these dimensions are multiples of 3/4""fuming""step-toolbar""stepBody""step-tip""step-question""step-comment""svg-pdf step-download download-pdf login-required verification-required""course""teacher-notes""project-section project-section-inner teacher-notes-section""project-section-title""js-comments""project-section-body""project-section-actions""btn btn-lg btn-large btn-yellow js-add-note""gpt-ad-infeed-leaderboard""gpt-ad leaderboard-sized-ad""step1""step""S758UFYH4AGI1IK""step-title""mediaset""no-js-photoset""Stock Preparation""https://cdn.instructables.com/FFW/012K/H4AGI0LD/FFW012KH4AGI0LD.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Stock Preparation""https://cdn.instructables.com/FH6/ITGU/H4AGIXNR/FH6ITGUH4AGIXNR.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Stock Preparation""https://cdn.instructables.com/F77/SW2V/H4AGI1W9/F77SW2VH4AGI1W9.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""step-body""quarter-sawn""move""step-toolbar""stepBody""step-tip""step-question""step-comment""svg-pdf step-download download-pdf login-required verification-required""course""step2""step""ST8W33KH4AGI1ZI""step-title""mediaset""no-js-photoset""Build the Legs""https://cdn.instructables.com/FUJ/GATB/H4AGIXNQ/FUJGATBH4AGIXNQ.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Build the Legs""https://cdn.instructables.com/F2P/OXFW/H4AGIXNP/F2POXFWH4AGIXNP.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Build the Legs""https://cdn.instructables.com/F6Y/XS2H/H4AGIXNO/F6YXS2HH4AGIXNO.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Build the Legs""https://cdn.instructables.com/FML/5QJ9/H4AG8T6K/FML5QJ9H4AG8T6K.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Build the Legs""https://cdn.instructables.com/F4K/S9DS/H4AFZ99F/F4KS9DSH4AFZ99F.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Build the Legs""https://cdn.instructables.com/F0X/EIIZ/H4AGIXNN/F0XEIIZH4AGIXNN.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Build the Legs""https://cdn.instructables.com/FBD/BJB7/H4AG4X9L/FBDBJB7H4AG4X9L.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Build the Legs""https://cdn.instructables.com/FRG/N0MI/H4AGIXNL/FRGN0MIH4AGIXNL.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Build the Legs""https://cdn.instructables.com/F9H/8VWY/H4AGIXNJ/F9H8VWYH4AGIXNJ.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Build the Legs""https://cdn.instructables.com/FB6/DWZY/H4AGIXNI/FB6DWZYH4AGIXNI.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Build the Legs""https://cdn.instructables.com/FN7/FLKC/H4AGIXNH/FN7FLKCH4AGIXNH.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Build the Legs""https://cdn.instructables.com/FP6/I92O/H4B2N7W5/FP6I92OH4B2N7W5.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Build the Legs""https://cdn.instructables.com/F1J/OKDS/H4AGIXNG/F1JOKDSH4AGIXNG.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""step-body""jig""step-toolbar""stepBody""step-tip""step-question""step-comment""svg-pdf step-download download-pdf login-required verification-required""course""step3""step""SWBRND8H4AGI2HU""step-title""mediaset""no-js-photoset""Building the Rails""https://cdn.instructables.com/FGR/K8CQ/H4AGIXNM/FGRK8CQH4AGIXNM.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Building the Rails""https://cdn.instructables.com/F2P/17MI/H4AGI0LA/F2P17MIH4AGI0LA.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Building the Rails""https://cdn.instructables.com/FA3/4QXT/H4AGI0LB/FA34QXTH4AGI0LB.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Building the Rails""https://cdn.instructables.com/F5J/EJJ0/H4AGD8XD/F5JEJJ0H4AGD8XD.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Building the Rails""https://cdn.instructables.com/FMH/4MON/H4AGI0L8/FMH4MONH4AGI0L8.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Building the Rails""https://cdn.instructables.com/FJ9/WJAY/H4AG4X9K/FJ9WJAYH4AG4X9K.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Building the Rails""https://cdn.instructables.com/FXB/AEXV/H4AGIXNC/FXBAEXVH4AGIXNC.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Building the Rails""https://cdn.instructables.com/F0F/TBED/H4AGI0L5/F0FTBEDH4AGI0L5.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Building the Rails""https://cdn.instructables.com/FWJ/IVI1/H4AGIXNB/FWJIVI1H4AGIXNB.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Building the Rails""https://cdn.instructables.com/FYQ/3MFH/H4B2N7W2/FYQ3MFHH4B2N7W2.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Building the Rails""https://cdn.instructables.com/FSZ/FLPO/H4AGI0L1/FSZFLPOH4AGI0L1.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Building the Rails""https://cdn.instructables.com/F84/M5XP/H4AGIXNA/F84M5XPH4AGIXNA.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Building the Rails""https://cdn.instructables.com/FTI/1MK8/H4AGI0L0/FTI1MK8H4AGI0L0.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Building the Rails""https://cdn.instructables.com/F8Y/N3X1/H4AFZ99E/F8YN3X1H4AFZ99E.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Building the Rails""https://cdn.instructables.com/FA0/8AD5/H4AGIXN8/FA08AD5H4AGIXN8.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Building the Rails""https://cdn.instructables.com/FR3/C60O/H4AG4X9J/FR3C60OH4AG4X9J.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""step-body""straighten"" pieces of stock to build the rails.  Try to find boards that are bowed about the same so that their internal forces will cancel each other out, and glue them face to face with some kind of straight-edge as a guide.  In my case, I found the perfect strong, flat, straight-edge in the fence rail on my table saw - it worked perfectly :)  Once the glue was cured, the rails were cleaned up and machined to final dimensions.

Next came the process of cutting the arches and tenons.  Since cutting the long rail tenons on the table saw was out due to their length and weight (dangerous and inaccurate), I built another quick jig using scraps that would allow me to cut the tenons with a router.  Once the setup was dialed in, cutting the tenons was fast and accurate.

The tenons on the rails actually are mitered at 45 degrees and meet inside the legs.  This mitering was done next on a miter saw.  Once again, a very sharp blade makes a huge difference.

The next step in the process was to cut the arches in the bottoms of the rails - I wanted curves on all my rails, unlike the original plans.  I laid out for 1 last update 2020/06/04 the curves for both the long and short rails on template material (old closet door skin, actually) using a piece of wood and clamps - bending the wood in to about 1"" from the line.  Next, the template was attached to the rail with carpet tape, and a pattern bit was used to clean the curve up.  Final smoothing in any rough areas was handled by a block plane and files.  Next, the rails were given 1/4"") bevel along the length - this was made with a hand plane since cutting it on the table saw would have been kind of awkward, and it actually went pretty fast since I''t have pics of this step, but they were cut on the table saw using a dado-stack blade.I''t fit in a standard-sized couch) and I wanted to add a little of my own style - so I used their plans as a basic starting point and went from there.  I ended up making the couch 1-1/2"" longer (notice these dimensions are multiples of 3/4""fuming""step-toolbar""stepBody""step-tip""step-question""step-comment""svg-pdf step-download download-pdf login-required verification-required""course""teacher-notes""project-section project-section-inner teacher-notes-section""project-section-title""js-comments""project-section-body""project-section-actions""btn btn-lg btn-large btn-yellow js-add-note""gpt-ad-infeed-leaderboard""gpt-ad leaderboard-sized-ad""step1""step""S758UFYH4AGI1IK""step-title""mediaset""no-js-photoset""Stock Preparation""https://cdn.instructables.com/FFW/012K/H4AGI0LD/FFW012KH4AGI0LD.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Stock Preparation""https://cdn.instructables.com/FH6/ITGU/H4AGIXNR/FH6ITGUH4AGIXNR.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Stock Preparation""https://cdn.instructables.com/F77/SW2V/H4AGI1W9/F77SW2VH4AGI1W9.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""step-body""quarter-sawn""move""step-toolbar""stepBody""step-tip""step-question""step-comment""svg-pdf step-download download-pdf login-required verification-required""course""step2""step""ST8W33KH4AGI1ZI""step-title""mediaset""no-js-photoset""Build the Legs""https://cdn.instructables.com/FUJ/GATB/H4AGIXNQ/FUJGATBH4AGIXNQ.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Build the Legs""https://cdn.instructables.com/F2P/OXFW/H4AGIXNP/F2POXFWH4AGIXNP.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Build the Legs""https://cdn.instructables.com/F6Y/XS2H/H4AGIXNO/F6YXS2HH4AGIXNO.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Build the Legs""https://cdn.instructables.com/FML/5QJ9/H4AG8T6K/FML5QJ9H4AG8T6K.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Build the Legs""https://cdn.instructables.com/F4K/S9DS/H4AFZ99F/F4KS9DSH4AFZ99F.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Build the Legs""https://cdn.instructables.com/F0X/EIIZ/H4AGIXNN/F0XEIIZH4AGIXNN.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Build the Legs""https://cdn.instructables.com/FBD/BJB7/H4AG4X9L/FBDBJB7H4AG4X9L.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Build the Legs""https://cdn.instructables.com/FRG/N0MI/H4AGIXNL/FRGN0MIH4AGIXNL.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Build the Legs""https://cdn.instructables.com/F9H/8VWY/H4AGIXNJ/F9H8VWYH4AGIXNJ.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Build the Legs""https://cdn.instructables.com/FB6/DWZY/H4AGIXNI/FB6DWZYH4AGIXNI.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Build the Legs""https://cdn.instructables.com/FN7/FLKC/H4AGIXNH/FN7FLKCH4AGIXNH.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Build the Legs""https://cdn.instructables.com/FP6/I92O/H4B2N7W5/FP6I92OH4B2N7W5.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Build the Legs""https://cdn.instructables.com/F1J/OKDS/H4AGIXNG/F1JOKDSH4AGIXNG.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""step-body""jig""step-toolbar""stepBody""step-tip""step-question""step-comment""svg-pdf step-download download-pdf login-required verification-required""course""step3""step""SWBRND8H4AGI2HU""step-title""mediaset""no-js-photoset""Building the Rails""https://cdn.instructables.com/FGR/K8CQ/H4AGIXNM/FGRK8CQH4AGIXNM.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Building the Rails""https://cdn.instructables.com/F2P/17MI/H4AGI0LA/F2P17MIH4AGI0LA.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Building the Rails""https://cdn.instructables.com/FA3/4QXT/H4AGI0LB/FA34QXTH4AGI0LB.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Building the Rails""https://cdn.instructables.com/F5J/EJJ0/H4AGD8XD/F5JEJJ0H4AGD8XD.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Building the Rails""https://cdn.instructables.com/FMH/4MON/H4AGI0L8/FMH4MONH4AGI0L8.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Building the 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Rails""https://cdn.instructables.com/F8Y/N3X1/H4AFZ99E/F8YN3X1H4AFZ99E.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Building the Rails""https://cdn.instructables.com/FA0/8AD5/H4AGIXN8/FA08AD5H4AGIXN8.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Building the Rails""https://cdn.instructables.com/FR3/C60O/H4AG4X9J/FR3C60OH4AG4X9J.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""step-body""straighten"" pieces of stock to build the rails.  Try to find boards that are bowed about the same so that their internal forces will cancel each other out, and glue them face to face with some kind of straight-edge as a guide.  In my case, I found the perfect strong, flat, straight-edge in the fence rail on my table saw - it worked perfectly :)  Once the glue was cured, the rails were cleaned up and machined to final dimensions.

Next came the process of cutting the arches and tenons.  Since cutting the long rail tenons on the table saw was out due to their length and weight (dangerous and inaccurate), I built another quick jig using scraps that would allow me to cut the tenons with a router.  Once the setup was dialed in, cutting the tenons was fast and accurate.

The tenons on the rails actually are mitered at 45 degrees and meet inside the legs.  This mitering was done next on a miter saw.  Once again, a very sharp blade makes a huge difference.

The next step in the process was to cut the arches in the bottoms of the rails - I wanted curves on all my rails, unlike the original plans.  I laid out the curves for both the long and short rails on template material (old closet door skin, actually) using a piece of wood and clamps - bending the wood in to about 1"" from the line.  Next, the template was attached to the rail with carpet tape, and a pattern bit was used to clean the curve up.  Final smoothing in any rough areas was handled by a block plane and files.  Next, the rails were given 1/4"") bevel along the length - this was made with a hand plane since cutting it on the table saw would have been kind of awkward, and it actually went pretty fast since I''t have pics of this step, but they were cut on the table saw using a dado-stack blade.

Step 4: Assemble the Frames

At this point, it''s tape around the edges of your mortises and the edges of the "" of the tenons so that you can just peel the tape off and the squeeze out with it.  As I expected, the frames were not quite square, so a band clamp around the "" side allowed me to pull the frame back into square as the glue cured.  Clamp everything up tight and be patient.

Once the glue is cured and your frames are solid, I drilled through the tenons using the "" as guides and drove in some 1/4"" hardwood dowels.  These dowels were NOT flush (again departing from the plans) because I wanted decorative Ebony "" pins instead of flush sanded round pins.  I used a drill-press mortising bit and a mallet to "" the holes to a depth of about a half inch.

The final step was to install the "" from the front rail to the back rail, and the "" to which the spring frames will attach.  The stretchers support the lower frame as the elastic banding can exert quite a bit of force pulling them together....

Step 5: Making the Spindles

Nothing will make you feel like a manufacturer faster than making 300 of the same part - lol.  Processes like this are also where jigs pay off dramatically.

The first part of this process was to cut the long rough stock.  I ripped boards into roughly 1""x8''t machine them to a specific dimension, I machined them to fit the dados.  Next, the stock was cut to length on a miter saw using a jig to ensure repeated accuracy.   At this point, all of the spindles were sanded on all 4 sides - yes, it''s far easier to do it while they''re installed.  I didn''s""floaters""filler block""fill in""step-toolbar""stepBody""step-tip""step-question""step-comment""svg-pdf step-download download-pdf login-required verification-required""course""step6""step""S33OKLTH4AGI5V2""step-title""mediaset""no-js-photoset""Testing the Spring Frame""https://cdn.instructables.com/FUQ/D5RB/H4AGI0KU/FUQD5RBH4AGI0KU.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Testing the Spring Frame""https://cdn.instructables.com/F9Q/HVYD/H4AGIXMN/F9QHVYDH4AGIXMN.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Testing the Spring Frame""https://cdn.instructables.com/F4E/PEG5/H4AGIXMO/F4EPEG5H4AGIXMO.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Testing the Spring Frame""https://cdn.instructables.com/FTE/49J9/H4B2N7VX/FTE49J9H4B2N7VX.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""step-body""spring frames""http://www.rochfordsupply.com/shop/Webbing/Furniture_Webbing/Elasbelt__%28Latex_or_rubber%29_Webbing_-_for_furniture_seats_and_backs/index.html""nofollow noopener""text-decoration: underline;"" Elasbelt Webbing from Rochford supply for my seats.  You can buy the appropriate clips from them as well, or, you can choose to forgo the clips and just staple directly to the frame (but you should be sure to use a *furniture grade* pneumatic stapler if you do).  Installing the clips is a little tedious, but I found the best process was to cut all my webbing to length, then using a small anvil and a 2lb sledge, mash the clips closed on the ends of the webbing.  It''t any stronger or faster than direct stapling (IMO).

When I first assembled a set of "" to the original specifications, I went ahead and installed them in the chair frame and tested it for sag by putting the foam in place and sitting on it.  It was way too soft - I sank to the stretcher right away, and knew that I needed to modify the specifications of the spring assemblies.  To achieve a firmness I liked, I shortened the length of the elastic, fit more strips closer together, and cross-wove pieces in (which required additional frame bracing on the main frames).  You will need to do some testing to make sure you get a seating firmness you like.  In later steps you will see how I ended up building the spring frames.

On a side note, do NOT be tempted to forgo the springs and just use a plywood panel as a base - you will produce a very uncomfortable seating surface.

Step 7: Corbels and Arm Rests

The "" are the decorative "" that support the broad armrests on these pieces.  Making them was pretty straight forward.  First, a template was laid out on tempered hardboard (Masonite) and smoothed to final shape.  This template was then used to both trace the piece onto rough stock, and used as a template for routing the final shape.  By "" the pieces during layout, I was able to reduce waste.  I always make extra pieces in case I damage something inadvertently - and more often than not, I end up using the extras.  The shape was rough-cut on the bandsaw, and finalized using the router table and a template.  This piece is thin - which is dangerous on the router table - so I built a jig to keep my hands away from the bit.  The rough piece was attached to the jig via screws through the back edge (which will later be slotted for biscuits) and it was nice having such a solid mount to work with.  Less vibration yields cleaner cuts.

Once the pieces were routed to shape, the edges were sanded and then bevels were routed on the edges.  Finally, a quick jig made from part of the cut-out scrap and some blocks was screwed to the bench, and biscuit slots were cut for a #20 and #10 biscuit.

The arm rests are mitered at the corners, joined with biscuits, and pinned with dowels at the outer "" of the miter.  Then, all the corners are given a 1/4""step-toolbar""stepBody""step-tip""step-question""step-comment""svg-pdf step-download download-pdf login-required verification-required""course""step8""step""S5WAIT9H4AGI623""step-title""mediaset""no-js-photoset""Installing the Corbels and Arm Rests""https://cdn.instructables.com/F73/A9IX/H4AGIXMJ/F73A9IXH4AGIXMJ.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Installing the Corbels and Arm Rests""https://cdn.instructables.com/F93/5S16/H4AG4X92/F935S16H4AG4X92.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Installing the Corbels and Arm Rests""https://cdn.instructables.com/FGN/NE5H/H4AGI0KF/FGNNE5HH4AGI0KF.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Installing the Corbels and Arm Rests""https://cdn.instructables.com/FX2/AI3J/H4AG8T5V/FX2AI3JH4AG8T5V.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Installing the Corbels and Arm 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verification-required""course""step9""step""SI9WDPSH4AGI6DU""step-title""mediaset""no-js-photoset""Applying the Finish""https://cdn.instructables.com/F3X/IAS3/H4AFZ996/F3XIAS3H4AFZ996.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Applying the Finish""https://cdn.instructables.com/F0D/DO1J/H4AGIXMH/F0DDO1JH4AGIXMH.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Applying the Finish""https://cdn.instructables.com/F8Z/2DTP/H4AGIXMG/F8Z2DTPH4AGIXMG.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Applying the Finish""https://cdn.instructables.com/FNZ/GRZH/H4AFZ994/FNZGRZHH4AFZ994.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Applying the Finish""https://cdn.instructables.com/FOO/GOU9/H4AGI0K7/FOOGOU9H4AGI0K7.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Applying the Finish""https://cdn.instructables.com/FLU/DK9M/H4AGIXMA/FLUDK9MH4AGIXMA.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Applying the Finish""https://cdn.instructables.com/FAA/FTL1/H4AGI0K9/FAAFTL1H4AGI0K9.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Applying the Finish""https://cdn.instructables.com/FSF/B9N1/H4AGI0K8/FSFB9N1H4AGI0K8.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Applying the Finish""https://cdn.instructables.com/F3J/8NN5/H4AG8T5T/F3J8NN5H4AG8T5T.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Applying the Finish""https://cdn.instructables.com/FOG/0SOD/H4AFZ993/FOG0SODH4AFZ993.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Applying the Finish""https://cdn.instructables.com/FJZ/D83H/H4AFS4XB/FJZD83HH4AFS4XB.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Applying the Finish""https://cdn.instructables.com/F06/I0AS/H4AG4X8U/F06I0ASH4AG4X8U.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Applying the Finish""https://cdn.instructables.com/FO5/FAVY/H4AGI0K6/FO5FAVYH4AGI0K6.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Applying the Finish""https://cdn.instructables.com/F6F/GGNU/H4AGI0K5/F6FGGNUH4AGI0K5.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Applying the Finish""https://cdn.instructables.com/FNF/KF1F/H4AFZ990/FNFKF1FH4AFZ990.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Applying the Finish""https://cdn.instructables.com/FS6/RIXA/H4AFZ98Z/FS6RIXAH4AFZ98Z.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Applying the Finish""https://cdn.instructables.com/F3E/4C81/H4AGD8VQ/F3E4C81H4AGD8VQ.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Applying the Finish""https://cdn.instructables.com/FIB/TFS9/H4AFZ98X/FIBTFS9H4AFZ98X.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Applying the Finish""https://cdn.instructables.com/FC3/G94S/H4AGI0JZ/FC3G94SH4AGI0JZ.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Applying the Finish""https://cdn.instructables.com/F2D/I55W/H4AGI0JY/F2DI55WH4AGI0JY.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Applying the Finish""https://cdn.instructables.com/F4N/HT3C/H4B2N7VU/F4NHT3CH4B2N7VU.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""step-body""masking blocks""rolling the edge"" apart and get good coverage on all  four sides without runs sounds like a formula for disaster (if not insanity).  It took me a few tries to figure out the best way, and it turned out that once again, a little time making a jig paid off in a huge way.  At first I tried laying out the spindles flat and shooting one side at a time.  That plan went out the window when Mac, my dog, decided right after I''t get them into the frame.  The way to do it is to install the last 5 spindles into the dado without spacers, slide them toward the inside, tilt in the last spindle, then slide the 5 spindles back apart and install their spacers.

Step 11: Craaaack! a Minor Disaster

I found out the hard way that the frame specifications in the original design weren''d just keep going (after all, these were plans I''ll want to build a better frame.

The new frame I made was substantially beefier and made from Hard Maple instead of Oak.  It still warped to an extent under the force of the elastic, but it was substantially more stable.

Step 12: Weaving the Elastic Springs

There are a couple of tricks I used to simultaneously stretch the elastic (probably taking something like 45 lbs of force per strap), hook it into the groove, then hold it in place while drilling a pilot hole and putting in a screw.  Here''s clip with a pair of pliers or channel lock
  • Get a quick-action clamp ready to hold the clip down
  • Pull the end across the frame, tilting the clip up so you can hook the lip of the clip into the kerf in the frame
  • Quickly clamp the clip down so that it can''d use a more loose-fill style of back cushion - something that could be squashed around to accommodate more personal seating preferences.  I suppose I can still do that :)

    I used a very high quality medium density  urethane seat foam.  If you buy cheap foam, in a very short time, it will lose it''d highly advise against using inferior materials - the foam is important.

    The fabric I used was genuine Toray Ultrasuede shipped out of Japan.  Not cheap, but it''s far more important to have the right needles and thread than it is a fancy machine.  Be sure to use a smooth, heavy, nylon upholstery thread and a needle rated for that heavy thread, and sewing heavy fabric goes pretty smoothly.

    To install the seat cushions, I clamped the cushion frames into the main frame and drove screws through the mounting strips and into the elastic frame.  The clamps make sure that the frame is lying flat in it''m really happy with the way these turned out - they pretty much met or exceeded all of my expectations.  Now, to build the rest of the living room furniture ..... the projects never end....

    Thanks for your time.  I hope you found this interesting if not educational - and should you decide to build your own I hope this instructable will help you avoid some of the pitfalls ;)

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      31 Discussions

      0
      DavidH1113

      1 year ago

      I have seen plenty of the settles. Your 3 tone is so beautiful. Congrats and thank you for documenting the build. The attachment of corbels using biscuits had never even occured to me, and I have a lamello top ten!

      0
      jwilliamsen

      Reply 1 year ago

      Thanks! I''t think I was going to be able to answer this - but aparently, I''re in luck!

      The mill is Twin Oaks Mill in Ava, Missouri - but I wasn''s Summit and Springfield mostly .... ;)

      0
      dbdraggin

      4 years ago

      Beautiful work! How are they holding up? Where did you get the foam?

      0
      jwilliamsen

      Reply 4 years ago

      Thank you :) They''m pretty easy on furniture. The Ultrasuede is really easy to clean up if something does get spilled, and it wears very well (it provides about twice the durability of standard upholstery material).

      I bought the foam from a local supplier - a place in Salt Lake City that makes and sells custom mattresses. In their warehouse, they have these humongous blocks of foam - around 8''x8''t have a locak mattress maker or upholstery supply, you can order custom foam from a number of places on the internet - like Rochford Supply.

      0
      Jtange

      4 years ago on Introduction

      Woodworking Planshow to Woodworking Plans for I was for 1 last update 2020/06/04 looking to build a couch for my office and came upon your plans. The furniture is quite beautiful and you''ve attempted a wood project with this many different components and techniques necessary, but the final product was well worth it. Thanks for all of your pictures and steps that helped me through the project.I was looking to build a couch for my office and came upon your plans. The furniture is quite beautiful and you''ve attempted a wood project with this many different components and techniques necessary, but the final product was well worth it. Thanks for all of your pictures and steps that helped me through the project.

      0
      jwilliamsen

      5 years ago on Introduction

      Thanks - I''t know the exact science behind it, but I''t that work just as well with less expense and labor? Building a beefier frame as you had to do should make that work. The seat frame on the couch for 1 last update 2020/06/04 appears to be only 2 5/8 deeper that the above mentioned chair. Thanks again for the great pics and description.Thanks - I''t know the exact science behind it, but I''t that work just as well with less expense and labor? Building a beefier frame as you had to do should make that work. The seat frame on the couch appears to be only 2 5/8 deeper that the above mentioned chair. Thanks again for the great pics and description.

      0
      Machine

      5 years ago on Step 9

      What a stunning item of furniture! It is beautiful and thank you for showing us how you built it. I envy your workshop and all the tools you have available. Please show more of what you do.

      0
      cjbikenut

      6 years ago on Step 14

      Fabulous work and great instructable. Thank you for sharing

      0
      Fastnate

      7 years ago on Step 13

      This is amazing! Nice instructable overall!

      0
      jwilliamsen

      7 years ago on Step 3

      Thanks :)

      If memory serves, I cut the cheeks on the long pieces by hand with a dozuki saw, and on the shorter pieces I used a stacked dado set on the table saw. Once they were roughed out, I used a rasp to fit them more precisely.

      0
      Dickie B

      7 years ago on Step 3 7 years ago on Step 3

      I like your router method for cuttung the tenon cheeks.
      How did you cut the shoulders? Ie. The width part of the tenon.
      Did you turn the boards on edge or what.
      I have my lumber and plans and am just getting started and your article is perfect for me. Very, very nice work!

      0
      KentM

      7 years ago on Introduction

      This is perhaps the best posting I have seen on Instructables. It provides a wealth of information and woodworking tips (I''t consider myself a master woodworker by any stretch of the imagination - I''t have any formal woodworking training - most of what I know has come from reading, experimenting, and making my share of mistakes - which often end up being the best teachers. I''s - starting with building furniture in the livingroom of my apartment using mostly construction scraps, hand tools, and an old circular saw (I was too poor to buy furniture ;).

      My background is pretty eclectic: Degrees in Biology and Chemistry, Emergency Medical Technician, Technical Illustrator and Mechanical Designer, Air Force Officer, Producer/Director, Corporate I.T. Director, Disney Artist,  and currently working as a "" in a variety of disciplines (computers to gunsmithing).... Like I said - eclectic ;)

      0
      MKosterich

      Woodworking Planshow to Woodworking Plans for 7 years ago on Introduction

      Woodworking Planshow to Woodworking Plans for This piece is absolutely gorgeous. I'd love to have one in my apartment! (Can I commission a piece? :)