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Simple Shop Stool Plans
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By cbm104 in WorkshopWorkbenches

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Woodworking Planshow to Woodworking Plans for Featured

Introduction: Simple Wood Workbench

More by the author:
About: Hi, I''s made from softwood available from a local timber merchant.

The dimensions might seem a bit slim but it''m right handed. I also wanted space for storage underneath and room to get a broom under any rails.

Woodworking Planshow to Woodworking Plans for Supplies:

Materials:

  • Redwood (pine) 50mm x 100mm x 4.8m(it was closer to 47mm x 94mm now it''ve done and actually easier than I expected, I laid out the clamps and added plenty of PVA to one side of each length. I tried to keep everything flat by using C clamps on some boards at each end.

    After it was dry I used a plain to flatten it, winding sticks help to check for an twist along the length.

Step 2: Legs

A pair of legs was made using four mortise and tenon joints. The 47mm x100mm x 3.6m joists were cut into eight lengths the 1 last update 2020/05/25 of 860mm and glued up in pairs, I also cut four lengths of 455mm for the cross braces.A pair of legs was made using four mortise and tenon joints. The 47mm x100mm x 3.6m joists were cut into eight lengths of 860mm and glued up in pairs, I also cut four lengths of 455mm for the cross braces.

I cut the mortises first so I could size the tenons to the actual size hole I''t knock tools and pencils down the back.

It''m using dowel pegs and glue to attach the legs to the front apron, there''s all good.

With the legs attached to the top, I added a braced to the back using a length of 47mm x 100mm joist using half-lap joints, these were secured with screws while the glue dried - I was racing the weather to get it inside before it rained and the 1 last update 2020/05/25 it''t claim to have invented it and mentions it as one of the standard holding/clamping methods. The 1800s saw a rise in the use threaded bar/nuts due to more accurate lathe cutting process but screws threads had been around since before the 3rd century BC and the Romans used a screws used screw/threaded presses for olives in the first century AD so it doesn''t use all of the nuts and washers so it could be said to cost £14.67. But both of these costs are kept small by the fact I already had the wood for the chops and handles. With the legs attached to the top, I added a braced to the back using a length of 47mm x 100mm joist using half-lap joints, these were secured with screws while the glue dried - I was racing the weather to get it inside before it rained and it''t claim to have invented it and mentions it as one of the standard holding/clamping methods. The 1800s saw a rise in the use threaded bar/nuts due to more accurate lathe cutting process but screws threads had been around since before the 3rd century BC and the Romans used a screws used screw/threaded presses for olives in the first century AD so it doesn''t use all of the nuts and washers so it could be said to cost £14.67. But both of these costs are kept small by the fact I already had the wood for the chops and handles.

  • Wood for the chops - I used 47mm x 255mm joist left over from the bench build.
  • Something for the handles

Tools:

  • Square
  • Ruler
  • 20mm Forsner bit
  • Drill
  • 20mm (or adjustable) spanner

First I mark and drill 20mm holes in the chop and work bench front apron, the depth is set by 100mm of worktop plus space for a nut and a spanner. I cut a recess for a nut on the front of the apron to lock the threaded bar to the bench, for me this is >15mm deep, I go a couple of mm deeper than my M20 nuts. I secure the threaded bar leaving a useful amount protruding.

The plate of Moxon''s damp in the shed) is a bit harder so on many modern cheap vices (like this one) the threaded bar is fixed then nuts move up and down to compress the chop. This is the very back of my shed so I''t going to be out to maximum extension most of the time.

I measure the same holes on the front chop and check it against the threaded bar before drilling. Then add a couple of nuts and washers to the front and it''ve seen many people make wooden or metal handles, I haven''m going to re-enforce mine, my first thought was with metal from an aerosol can - this is designed to resist expansion so might help. However it proved to be very very thin, difficult to work with as it bent so easily and likely to slice my fingers so I used jubilee clips. In the video I run though how I drew the handle in 3D builder, it took less than five minutes to draw so it's not pretty but it works ok so far, once one of them fails I can try something else. The plastic and electricity made each printed handle cost about £1.20 each... which almost makes them the most expensive part :D

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    9 Discussions

    0
    ArthurJ5

    7 months ago

    I agree with medelman2, the back fence will be the first thing you cut off and plane down.

    Also, I hope you can move that thing because there isn’t much use for a vice next to a wall like that. If you are planing there is no room for jointing and if sawing there is nowhere to saw from, even left handed.

    I like the metal working vise, I recommend you put it on the near corner so that you have room for the stock and can swivel it to either corner. Mine sits by my compressor and I have to move everything around to cut any steel or copper pipe. :/

    Other than that, a great job and that bench will last a long time.

    1
    I MP

    7 months ago

    Woodworking Planshow to Woodworking Plans for I recently discovered a type of woodworkers workbench which goes back 2000 years, one you can sit on as you work, . I found it on YouTube but it is best laid out in a book :Ingenious Muchanicks: by Christopher Schwartz. In the book he researched a long history of sit on workbenches. You can build one of any lumber you choose and make it all with hand tools. Building one is my next project since I have gravitated toward using just hand tools for my woodworking projects.

    1
    medelman2

    7 months ago on Step 1

    Nice use of stock sizes. If I may, I would suggest leaving out the raised rail at the back of the bench. That way, you can pull it away from the wall and work on pieces that are wider than the bench top when required.

    1
    Omer O

    8 months ago

    Woodworking Planshow to Woodworking Plans for Nice project !

    0
    cbm104

    Reply 7 months ago

    Thanks! :D

    1
    tytower

    8 months ago

    Looks good . Only tip I can give is the front board and one or 2 behind it should be raised in level by about an inch . (wider boards) This allows the shavings to go backward to be swept down and off the sides.
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