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I want to start composting my yard and kitchen waste and use the compost to fertilize vegetables in my raised bed and some fruit trees I have. Right now I am not doing composting. My options are do nothing or use one of the smaller bins (pictures below) that are available through Costco or my city. The other option is to buy a larger composting bin (I heard 1m x 1m is the minimum). If that is the preferred option, can someone recommend a bin and whether it would be okay to keep that bin on concrete vs. having it sit on the soil. Dimensions of the City Compost bin is 28x28x30 inches
I''d highly recommend looking for plans on line to build your own bin. It should be at least 1 cubic meter. Beyond that, it can be as fancy or as simple as you like. If looks are important, you can make it look like a small fenced in area and use a nice wood like cedar. If looks aren''d be a bit careful about where you get the pallets, since many pallets are treated with chemicals to keep insects away. Apparently, pallets with the letters '' on them are untreated and safe for use). Any of these options will work far better than the plastic bin. I would place any of these bins on soil, rather than concrete, if at all possible.
Cheapest Wood Patio Planshow to Cheapest Wood Patio Plans for As for the tumbler - I have never used one myself, but a good friend has one. If you don''16 at 3:26
All of the other products that I have seen are either too small (including all the tumbler varieties) or outrageously expensive. If you have the space, I recommend the geobin or building your own 1mx1mx1m cube out of wood. Something simple like 1 of the 3 square areas in this picture is more than sufficient:
Be sure and check with your local city - they may have a composting program where you can get some training and a low to no cost bin (Long Beach has one). I recommend a bin like the brown one situated on the ground in the OP. Put it on the ground directly - The compost bins at my kids''t need to. Make a pit in the middle for new material and pull the material off of the sides to cover it. Pull the finished compost out of the bottom, tossing any un-composted material back into the bin as you do it. It''16 at 22:47
Just picking between these 3, the tumbler is the easiest to turn and seems the most sturdy. I bought one of the square flat-pack options and I''ve just bought a small second-hand dual tumbler the 1 last update 2020/05/31 for foodscraps and the veggie beds, and I''16 at 22:00Just picking between these 3, the tumbler is the easiest to turn and seems the most sturdy. I bought one of the square flat-pack options and I''ve just bought a small second-hand dual tumbler for foodscraps and the veggie beds, and I''16 at 22:00
The different types of composting range from hot composting which can reduce a pile in 18 days, to a cold pile that can take a year or more. Given time, any container you use will not stop the natural process of decomposition, and some will accelerate it. However, some people say that poorly made compost can unbalance your soil so that it degrades it, leaving you worse off than if you had never added it to the soil.
Most people talk about trying to create a hot compost pile. This is a pile of organic matter of a minimum of 1 cubic metre. The size is important in that less then that will not allow the centre of the pile to reach the correct temperatures to grow the correct bacteria that do the decomposition. The composting bacterial march starts with psychrophilic bacteria (55 - 70 deg F), then mesophilic (70 - 100 deg F), and finally thermophilic (113 - 160 deg F). Since these are aerobic bacteria, you need to aerate the pile, and turning it by moving material from the outside to the inside provides more food for the bacteria.
I like to think of a compost pile as a nuclear pile. The nitrogen based material provides the energy for the decomposition process for the bacteria. Carbon rods are inserted to moderate the process. Not enough carbon causes the pile to become an anaerobic mess that is likely to go nuclear and upset the neighbours. Carbon slows the process down, and a carbon to nitrogen ratio of 30-60:1 allows for orderly decomposition with minimal nitrogen loss from oxidation. Too much carbon causes the pile to cool and become inert.
In order to get the right ratios of carbon to nitrogen, you can look up tables of the carbon:nitrogen ratios of the vegetation that you add. Or, just consider mature plants at the end of their annual/biennial lives carbon products, and immature plants nitrogen products. If you mix equal layers of mature vegetation with immature, and some soil, you''ll get C:N of 60:1. Piles that create high carbon compost lead to superior nutrition for plants, remembering that we, and what we grow, are all carbon based life forms, and carbon forms the skeleton of all organic life.
Given the above, we can see that the commercial products you illustrate above, do not generally achieve the volume to achieve a hot compost pile. Instead you''s why many bins are black, to try and add additional heat that is not supplied by the pile to help composting. Some tumbling systems are made of metal which might also allow them to heat up more easily from the sun so that they can hot compost.
So, the choice of system depends on your circumstances, how long you''16 at 20:04
When I moved I got a double tumbler similar to the one in the upper left picture. I think this was it: http://www.tanksforless.com/p/984/lifetime-dual-compost-tumbler I got it at costco. I love it. The tumbling action is great for speeding the composting, I get virtually no smell, so I can keep it close to the house (in particular, close to the kitchen), and I love being able to fill one half, then fill the other half while the first batch is composting.
HOWEVER, after about 2 years, the latch on one of the tumblers rusted solid, so I can''t tried any rust remover yet, so I can''s fixable, but I think it''s a common problem for this kind of composter.